|
I. Design and Performance:
You have a real good-sounding CD player, amp, turntable or recorder. You just know it could sound great with a first-rate AC cord. No dice, the piece doesn’t have a removable cord. Cheer up! Since this comes up so often, we've developed a kit to change your cord easily—without diving into the bowels of your gear wielding a soldering iron. Couldn't be simpler. You get a MKI or a MKII Clearview Double Helix Power Cord Kit. It comes with prepared and marked bare wire ends plus insulated copper butt splices that you simply squeeze on with pliers—no soldering. Just cut your component’s captive cord 3" from the box and scrape bare the conductors at the cut end, slip on the butt splices and squeeze. By the way, it'll sound better than if you’d paid somebody $100 to cut a hole in the back of your chassis and hard-wire in an IEC jack (all that extra IEC jack and mating plug is a lot of bad-sounding dielectric).
II. Installation Tips:
-
For unterminated Clearview Power Cords: gold tape marks the unterminated end of the hot wire. The other twisted pair is the neutral power wire. The green bridging wire between the two twisted pairs is the ground.
-
Cut off the captive power cord on your equipment three inches outside the equipment enclosure. Remove at least half an inch of insulation on all the wire ends. If you have a two-wire captive cord, connect the hot wire bare end (color-coded black) to the hot unterminated end of our wire (either by soldering or twisting together or using a crimped butt splice; for twisted together wires use an electrician's wire nut). Then do the same for the Clearview neutral wire and the neutral bare end of the captive cord (color coded white). Leave the green bridging wire loose and unconnected, and make sure any bare spots are wrapped with clear polypropylene tape.
-
If you have a three wire captive cord, then connect the bare end of the captive ground wire (color-coded green) to the center of the green bridging wire. Make sure 1/4" of the center of the green wire has been scraped bare of insulation. Either solder this connection or twist on the bare captive ground tightly and wrap with clear polypropylene tape.
-
To get absolute maximum sonic benefit, it is worthwhile to try reversing the captive cord's hot and the neutral connection to the Clearview C ord before permanently crimping the power wires together (just twist the bare ends together and wrap temporarily with clean polypropylene tape). One of the two orientations will sound much better than the other.
-
If you're attaching the unterminated Clearview cord inside your equipment enclosure, use the same connections as above and solder each termination. Make sure that wherever the wire passes through the chassis, each strand of the Clearview is wrapped with plenty of clear polypropylene tape to make sure that no metal edge of the chassis can cut through the thin insulation of the Clearview.
|
